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The train journey was ok - the sleeping arrangements a bit primitive and washing facilities non existent - but we survived it. However, a low point was an abrupt knock on the door just before 5 & instruction to disembark immediately as we had arrived! Pulled on some random clothes & stuffed the rest into the rucksack and stumbled on to the platform.
Stood for half an hour in a car park waiting for another couple, while stirring (and no doubt improving) military music blared from a PA speaker.
Arrived at hotel around 6 am after a fairly hairy but ultimately incident free drive up the mountain to SaPa (1500m). At first impression the hotel seemed a bit dingy and down at heel but the owner greeted us, announced that we could have our room straight away and offered (paid) breakfast at 7.30. Things were defo looking up.
Although neither of us had slept well on the train we decided to make the most of our time there & so booked a guide to go trekking in the hills. It was fantastic! The guide - Jn - is a member of the Black Hmong tribe and took us on a 10km tour to include her village. The tour had its commercial overtones it has to be said as we were joined by an increasing number of local women who (inevitably) wanted us to buy local handicrafts, which we duly did.
Managed without a nap until 2 powerful Margueritas and dinner later we fell into bed at 8.30!
Wednesday was a new day and we woke after 12 hours' sleep refreshed and restored. Decided to go walking without a guide this time - much more relaxed- and took 3 hours to do 6 or 7 km of hilly terrain to a waterfall.
Lunch was among the best (the Hill Station in SaPa) & we're now sitting at the railway station at Lau Cai waiting for the overnight sleeper back to Hanoi.
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